Before we'll leave for the first Boulder World Cup of the season in Canada, here is our comparison of top male climbers at the European Bouldering Championships in Innsbruck 2105, starting with qualification round’s problem #3 in group B, that was only solved (in the last seconds) by Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer.
The men’s semis and finals had interesting dynamics insofar as among the top four, Adam Ondra, Stefan Scarperi and Jakob Schubert all topped problems that no other competitor could climb.
The semi-finals had extremely difficult boulder problems. The first one was topped only by Jakob Schubert, the second only by Adam Ondra, Michael Piccolruaz and 2009 world champion Alexey Rubtsov while problem #3 remained unconquered.
Big names such as Gelmanov, Sharafudtinov and Glairon-Mondet failed to make it through to the last round and were replaced by Martin Stráník and Stefan Scarperi along with Rubtsov, Ondra, Hojer and Schubert.
The first problem was topped by Ondra only. Unluckily for him, though, his flash attempt was halted because he had touched the marked off wall to the right during the dyno. He sent it second go.
Jan Hojer produced an impressive flash of the second problem, a dyno to a hold that was out of sight, whilst Jakob Schubert managed to send it in the dying seconds of his round.
The third problem was characterised by vertical symmetry as the holds were identical on both two sides. This resulted in many different types of beta, although the only athlete who actually managed to stick the extremely slick and slopy holds was Stefan Scarperi of Italy.
Jan Hojer climbed climbed the last problem on his second attempt, securing the title. Adam Ondra came in second after climbing the last boulder in four attempts and, since no one else managed to reach its top, Stefan Scarperi held on to bronze. Just one attempts separated him from Jakob Schubert who had looked impressively strong throughout the qualifications and semi-final.
the male podium of the Bouldering World Championships consisted of Jan Hojer, born 1992 near Cologne in Germany, Jernej Kruder, born 1990 in Celje in Slovenia and Adam Ondra, born 1993 in Brno in the Czech Republic.
It should be noted that the World Cup in Haiyang was a very weak one, taking place in a ghost town without any real spectators. As a result (?), route setting was weak too, but these issues are the subject of another analysis in the future, let’s talk about the bouldering instead for now!
Before these two world cups, Jan Hojer and Dmitry Sharafutdinov were just a view points apart, as were Shauna Coxsey and Akiyo Noguchi.
Jan and Dmitri were looking forward to a friendly death match when Dmitri ran into some personal problems that clearly were not helping his bouldering. For the first time in ages he failed to qualify for the finals.
Especially at the end of the season Shauna and Akiyo climbed clearly better than the other girls through all the rounds.
Haiyang was won by Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer.
First World Cup win ever for Jan Hojer
In the men’s competition Austria’s Kilian Fischhuber, the previous year’s winner, was the only athlete flashing three out of four final problems, but didn't score in number three (no top, no bonus) what put him in place three in the end. Gold went to Germany's Jan Hojer, reigning world champion Dmitrii Sharafutdinov gained place two and therewith his fourth podium of the season. Its worth noticing that all the climbers in the German bouldering team bouldered really well during those days, it seems that we like the air in Innsbruck!
After this great competition weekend in Austria the IFSC Bouldering World Cup is moving overseas: Toronto will be the venue of the next World Cup stop on June 1-2! All results and further informations on www.ifsc-climbing.org. Stay tuned for our report soon and find a short clip about the finals below...
... as seen by the German Climbing Team. For results and anything else, please see the IFSC site!
Für 2012 erprobt der DAV Trainerstab ein neues Konzept für Disziplin- und altersübergreifende Lehrgänge. Das Wettbewerbsklettern entwickelt sich stetig und so müssen wir unsere Strategien und Methoden anpassen. Die strickte Trennung nach Disziplinen erscheint uns nicht mehr sinnvoll in Zeiten, in denen eine Mina Marcovic sowohl den BWC in München, als auch den Gesamtweltcup im Lead gewinnt. Der DAV selber hat mit Shorti einen Athleten am Start, der sowohl in jedes Lead- als auch in jedes Boulderfinale klettern kann und dafür mit dem zweiten Platz im Overall bei der WM in Arco belohnt worden ist. Altersübergreifende Lehrgänge sollen sowohl den jungen Kletterern den Übergang zu den Erwachsenen erleichtern, als auch die Kommunikation zwischen den Jugend- und den jeweiligen Fachtrainern verbessern.