Before we'll leave for the first Boulder World Cup of the season in Canada, here is our comparison of top male climbers at the European Bouldering Championships in Innsbruck 2105, starting with qualification round’s problem #3 in group B, that was only solved (in the last seconds) by Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer.
The men’s semis and finals had interesting dynamics insofar as among the top four, Adam Ondra, Stefan Scarperi and Jakob Schubert all topped problems that no other competitor could climb.
The semi-finals had extremely difficult boulder problems. The first one was topped only by Jakob Schubert, the second only by Adam Ondra, Michael Piccolruaz and 2009 world champion Alexey Rubtsov while problem #3 remained unconquered.
Big names such as Gelmanov, Sharafudtinov and Glairon-Mondet failed to make it through to the last round and were replaced by Martin Stráník and Stefan Scarperi along with Rubtsov, Ondra, Hojer and Schubert.
The first problem was topped by Ondra only. Unluckily for him, though, his flash attempt was halted because he had touched the marked off wall to the right during the dyno. He sent it second go.
Jan Hojer produced an impressive flash of the second problem, a dyno to a hold that was out of sight, whilst Jakob Schubert managed to send it in the dying seconds of his round.
The third problem was characterised by vertical symmetry as the holds were identical on both two sides. This resulted in many different types of beta, although the only athlete who actually managed to stick the extremely slick and slopy holds was Stefan Scarperi of Italy.
Jan Hojer climbed climbed the last problem on his second attempt, securing the title. Adam Ondra came in second after climbing the last boulder in four attempts and, since no one else managed to reach its top, Stefan Scarperi held on to bronze. Just one attempts separated him from Jakob Schubert who had looked impressively strong throughout the qualifications and semi-final.
the male podium of the Bouldering World Championships consisted of Jan Hojer, born 1992 near Cologne in Germany, Jernej Kruder, born 1990 in Celje in Slovenia and Adam Ondra, born 1993 in Brno in the Czech Republic.
Despite that, two of them are still the hardest routes of Adam´s home climbing area and of the whole Czech Republic. And it would be amazing, if somebody would finally try them... :-)
Our account of the European 2010 climbing and bouldering championships. Needed a bit of time in the making, but should be interesting for in-depth movement analysis. For further information and detailed results, check out http://www.ifsc-climbing.org. Read on for more in German ...
The Bouldering World Cup 2010 stayed gripping up to the last problem! Munich's '72 Olympic stadium provided a worthy location for the final event. Of all the potential winners, only Chloé Graftiaux dropped the ball and didn't make it to the finals. In the finals Akiyo Noguchi won by the narrowest margin possible - Anna Stöhr needed one more try for the only problem the girls could climb in the finals.
Route setting was very "russian style" as many competitors put it, meaning rather rock like moves on bad holds, what tends to favor either, well, russians or … rock climbers. Since Adam Ondra is the best rock climber in the world right now It was no surprise than that he won the event and with it the overall Boulder World Cup 2010.
As usual you can check out the results here. We rather let the (moving) pictures do the talking, so watch our clip below and stay tuned for our route setting survey video among the top competitors here very soon! For our reports of the 6 previous Boulder World Cups please read on ...
The Petrohradské PADání 2010 again was a wonderful event! Taking place in the newly developed "Mlynsky Vrch" area we also the had the weather gods on our side. Some complained that it was too hot, but this didn't keep Adam Ondra from doing the FA of "Stix, sd", 8B+ and three 8Bs as well as several 8As over the weekend! Also starring two times lead world champion Tomáš Mrázek...
above: Adam Ondra, first ascent of "Stix, sd", read on for our reports of the 2006 and 2009 PADanis...
Lizenz zum Bouldern ist fertig und kann ab sofort im Buchhandel (ISBN: 9783980480956) oder hier erworben werden!
oben: Besprechungen von Lizenz zum Bouldern, auf der nächsten Seite kann du dir einige Seiten anschauen ...
It is the nature of human progress that we learn. By watching the clips posted here and elsewhere, we will learn about climbing and therefore improve. Somewhere in the world a talented girl or boy, say 12 years old, who watches Adam, Johanna, Chris and all the other great climbers of our time, will be a far better climber in five years time than those guys ever could be!
So read on, watch those clips, watch them again, discuss them - we will keep on making them, for the future of climbing!