Very nice video of Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat in this mythical Rätikon route, with Nina making the first women ascent of one of the hardest multipitch routes in the world.
If you started climbing in the early eighties, there were only a couple heros to choose from and among those outstanding climbers, Patrick Edlinger was not only the most glamerous, he was also the one "who had it all". Some of the most inspiring imagery of that time showed Patrick Edlinger soloing barefoot in the Verdon and Buoux or repeating everything in the western US in unheard-of good style. He single-handingly developed the Verdon and Ceüse (!!!) and, just when everybody thought he was just a poser (some of his film were rather "french" ;-) - he won all the important competitions! Among them was Munich 1989, the pic below shows him on the final route.
In 2006 he moved to La Palud to be close to his beloved Verdon Gorge where I shot the pic of Patrick and his kid in 2005. He became only 52 and will be always remembered for one of the characters who shaped modern climbing forever!
Somebody already uploaded my video comparision of Patrick Edlinger and Wolfgang Güllich in Munich 1989 in bad quality (after the break) but I will re-upload it in better quality as well as other footage we have of Patrick...
Chris Sharma talks about the ‘inside game’ of climbing – how our thoughts can either hinder our performance or enhance our experience. The universal idea of letting go and focusing on the present moment allows us to more fully enjoy our passionate pursuits and our lives… of course this is easier said that done.
When it comes to sport climbing, the energy center of the universe without a doubt is located in Spain! Here you find stories, videos and photos of noteworthy ascents.
In summer 2006 Toni Lamprecht bolted a line next to the ugly bolt ladder in the ninth pitch of "Les Marches du Temps" in the Verdon. Weather was very bad at this time of the year, but easter 2007 he and Uli Strunz had no problems with the now 8a pitch. They did the whole route without falls. Les Marches du Temps is another great free Verdon route with lots of exposed and challenging pitches. Udini filmed Uli and Toni during the process of finding the line, cleaning and bolting and, well, finally climbing it for the upcoming "2nd Licence to climb" DVD. Also we started a Verdon Gallery here, with photos shot during our stays. Here is what Toni has to say about their ascent (in German):
“Aber der Yuji, der ist doch schon toootaaal alt” platzt die neunzehnjährige Emma (Name geändert) in die Diskussion darüber, dass Yuji Hirayama, unser aller Kletteridol, keine Chance in Biographie, 8c+ hat. Ganze Passagen in der Route kann Yuji nicht klettern. “Aber bei den Wettbewerben tut er noch ganz gut mit” gibt einer zu bedenken. “Ja, aber in den Wettbewerbsrouten gibts auch keine schweren Züge!” sagt Daniel Jung, der deutsche Meister von 2004. Alle nicken zustimmend und damit ist das Thema schon durch, denn keiner der anfangzwanzigjährigen mit denen ich in Céüze stehe können sich vorstellen, dass auch Yuji mal so frisch, jung und stark gewesen ist wie sie selber gerade. Emma war ein Jahr alt, als Yuji 1989 mit seinem Sieg in Nürnberg den ersten großen internationalen Auftritt hatte.