Am 26. September 2006 hat Chris Sharma nach zahllosen Versuchen seine neue, noch unbenannte Line am Es Pontas im Meer vor Santanyi gemacht. Die über 20 Meter hohe Route vergleicht Chris von den Kletter-Schwierigkeiten her vage mit seiner "Realization" (9a+) in Ceüse. Damit gehört sie sicher zu den schwierigsten Routen der Welt, ist allerdings dadurch, dass man beim psicobloc nicht ausbouldern kann, möglicherweise die am schwierigsten zu kletternde Linie überhaupt!

Freigegeben in Psicobloc
Samstag, 08 August 2009 16:17

Bronx Rock Invitational 2009

Recipe for a fantastic boulder contest:

Invite 12 very different climbers, all with various backgrounds, 6 girls and 6 boys. Have a cool venue ready, with clean structures that allow for creative route setting that challenge all skills for bouldering. Let them pick straws, one girl and one boy share one section on your structure. Leave it open to them if or if not to coorporate, just ask them to care for each others safety. Let them put up problems, apply as few rules as possible, provide the girls with 2 additional (bad!) holds to compensate for reach etc. Do the ranking / prize thing Melloblocco style, each problem is worth x €, divided through the ascendonistas so nobody returns empty handed. After them setting for one hour, do something for your audience, get into the climber's head, ask them for the idea behind their problem, some might have one, some not, the crowd loves world class climbers talk about climbing!


Than it is bouldering time!

Your job is done, from now on the thing flows by itself! The climbers support each other, the vibe is friendly and the air electric. Some unexpected turns are to be expected, boys get grey hair over "easy" girl problems, girls cheat by solving macho moves with girl technique. More grey hair for the boys! After 90 minutes everybody is wasted beyond believe and you have clear, undisputed winners. (Jule & Jonas in this case) Everybody is happy.

Trust me, we did it three times now. It is called BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL! (read here what happened 2007 and 2008)



Freigegeben in Competition
Samstag, 04 Juli 2009 13:43

High-end sport climbing in Spain

above: Chris Sharma during the first ascent of Golpe de Estada, 9b at Siurana, Spain


When it comes to sport climbing, the energy center of the universe without a doubt is located in Spain! Here you find stories, videos and photos of noteworthy ascents.

Freigegeben in Climbing
Test shots with a head mounted "bullit cam", 2004. The footage never got used because the bullit cam can only deliver SD and we entirely switched over to HD in 2005. Now, that there is such a hype about producing in 3D, we want to go back and do a 3D HD film about the Verdon. That would be a stunner!
Gallery of udini shooting in the Verdon Canyon, 2005. The footage later got used on "Die 2te Lizenz zum Klettern DVD", 2008
Freigegeben in Making Of
Sonntag, 28 Juni 2009 17:15

Die zweite Lizenz zum Klettern DVD


Die zweite Lizenz zum Klettern DVD ist keine Neuauflage der ersten Lizenz DVD, sondern eine Ergänzung und Erweiterung mit neuem Konzept „Kletterleistung de/konstruiert.“ Am Anfang steht die Frage „Was wissen wir übers Klettern?“

Gerade ist sie presswarm eingetroffen, käuflich erwerben kann man sie hier.
Freigegeben in Media
Samstag, 09 Mai 2009 17:47

Verdon psicobloc

Deep water soloing or psicobloc is obviously not only possible above the sea, but also above rivers and lakes. Where the Verdon river enters the Lac de St. Croix you have a bit of both, moving water that is still pleasantly warmed up in the lake. The only real danger are the zillions of tourists that populate the lake in summertime. Even if you yell at them they might not understand the language or are not aware of the danger of someone falling on their head. Still Anna Brenk, Frederike Förster, Markus and Daniel Jung were enjoying the Verdon limestone and the refreshing water as you can see on these photos. Udini shot this footage for the "Soul Climbing" part of the upcoming "Die 2te Lizenz zum Klettern" DVD,  due this fall.

Enjoy summer!

Ah, one more thing: try to bring your own floating device, those pedalos are not cheap...

Freigegeben in Psicobloc
Freitag, 08 Mai 2009 12:24

Buildering WC 2006, Cologne

It was an unusual sibirian day in Cologne when builderers from France, the Netherlands, Turkey and Germany met to find out who is the King of Buildering. Christian Benk from Germany did all the funky problems quicker, faster and with more style than the rest of the pack and at the end was the undisputed winner.

Neidvoll blickt die gesamte Kletterwelt auf die ungeheueren Möglichkeiten in Köln am Rhein, im Volksmund auch das Rom des Nordens genannt. Als sich hier am 15.1.2006 zwanzig der besten Builderer aus Frankreich, der Türkei, Holland und D-land trafen um ihren King of Kong, äh Köln zu ermitteln war jedoch von mediteraner Wärme wenig zu spüren...

Freigegeben in Buildering