Comparison of top female climbers. 2015 overall world cup winner Akiyo Noguchi, World and European champion Juliane Wurm, Alex Puccio, american youngsters Margo Hayes and Megan Mascarenas, Miho Nonaka, Moni Retschy, Shauna Coxsey and of course the fantastic Anna Stöhr showing their skills in Innsbruck, Toronto and Vail 2015.
From the qualifications on, it became clear that Alex Puccio and Juliane Wurm were in their best shape ever. Alex had skipped the last two events of the Bouldering World Cup 2014 to re-charge her batteries with some of the hardest rock bouldering ever done by a woman.
The third contender for the title was Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi, winner of the 2014 Bouldering World Cup, her third overall title after 2009 and 2010.
With Anna Stöhr injured and other potential shoo-ins like Miho Nonoka and Shauna Coxsey not in peak shape the Bouldering World Championships in Munich became a battle between Akiyo, Alex and Jule. Only Alex and Jule could climb problem #3 in the semis by showing some of the strongest performances in bouldering competition history. Jule won the semis, followed by Akiyo. Both needed two tries for the first problem in the finals, which Alex had flashed. Than, after tremendous struggle, Akiyo couldn’t top problem #2, Alex needed two tries and Jule flashed it. That problem was hard !
After problem #3 didn’t see an ascent, it came down to problem #4 between Alex and Jule. Whoever would do it with fewer tries would become Bouldering World Champion 2014! After Alex needed just 6 attempts, the pressure was on Jule. She kept it together though and secured her first world title! If you want to learn more about Juliane Wurm, please check out our 2011 portrait „Jule dreams of bouldering" If you want to get an idea about the training of Juliane Wurm and the German Bouldering Team, check out our playlist.
It should be noted that the World Cup in Haiyang was a very weak one, taking place in a ghost town without any real spectators. As a result (?), route setting was weak too, but these issues are the subject of another analysis in the future, let’s talk about the bouldering instead for now!
Before these two world cups, Jan Hojer and Dmitry Sharafutdinov were just a view points apart, as were Shauna Coxsey and Akiyo Noguchi.
Jan and Dmitri were looking forward to a friendly death match when Dmitri ran into some personal problems that clearly were not helping his bouldering. For the first time in ages he failed to qualify for the finals.
Especially at the end of the season Shauna and Akiyo climbed clearly better than the other girls through all the rounds.
Haiyang was won by Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer.
Vienna, the third stop of the Boulder World Cup 2012, brought us some strange and than some great route setting as well as convincing performances of Akiyo Noguchi and Rustam Gelmanov. More soon, stay posted!
Jet-lagged an basically already on the way to the next Boulder World Cup in Slovenia's Log-Dragomer, I still managed to edit a little clip about our China adventure - Enjoy!
When defending champion Anna Stöhr failed to qualify for the finals, it was clear that Akiyo Noguchi would be the new queen of bouldering. Akiyo barely made it into the finals, but then, with the tail wind of here overall win, showed an incredible performance!
The main ingrdient for any climbing comp is the route setting and I can not praise the quality of the international route setting team around Reini Fichtinger highly enough! Each problem was different and in the end everybody agreed with the outcome. Well done!
Jonas Baumann, who won the Boulder WC in Vail unfortunately didn't have a good day and didn't pass qualification. His fifth place overall is still a great success.