Donnerstag, 07 Januar 2010 15:13

Hard Moves Boulder League

Fantastisches Finale der HardMoves 2010 in den Wupperwänden!
Freigegeben in Bouldering
Samstag, 08 August 2009 16:17

Bronx Rock Invitational 2009

Recipe for a fantastic boulder contest:

Invite 12 very different climbers, all with various backgrounds, 6 girls and 6 boys. Have a cool venue ready, with clean structures that allow for creative route setting that challenge all skills for bouldering. Let them pick straws, one girl and one boy share one section on your structure. Leave it open to them if or if not to coorporate, just ask them to care for each others safety. Let them put up problems, apply as few rules as possible, provide the girls with 2 additional (bad!) holds to compensate for reach etc. Do the ranking / prize thing Melloblocco style, each problem is worth x €, divided through the ascendonistas so nobody returns empty handed. After them setting for one hour, do something for your audience, get into the climber's head, ask them for the idea behind their problem, some might have one, some not, the crowd loves world class climbers talk about climbing!


Than it is bouldering time!

Your job is done, from now on the thing flows by itself! The climbers support each other, the vibe is friendly and the air electric. Some unexpected turns are to be expected, boys get grey hair over "easy" girl problems, girls cheat by solving macho moves with girl technique. More grey hair for the boys! After 90 minutes everybody is wasted beyond believe and you have clear, undisputed winners. (Jule & Jonas in this case) Everybody is happy.

Trust me, we did it three times now. It is called BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL! (read here what happened 2007 and 2008)



Freigegeben in Competition
Montag, 06 Juli 2009 08:14

where it all began

For hours you've fought with this problem. By the time you've figured out the sequence, your power is gone. You rest. Put the shoes back on. Uuuuh, that hurts. Your toes are screaming, the laces cutting through the battered skin of your fingers. A couple more alibi tries before you admit that you are done for today, defeated!
Hiking back you wonder if you ever felt so wasted before. You get lost. This dammed forest! Every muscle fiber is begging for mercy...
But wait, this arête really looks too good! Lets check it out for another day! It is so tempting, you might as well put the shoes on and give it a try ... By the time you've figured out the sequence, all your power is gone ...
It's getting dark, you are stoked, before you fall asleep your body remembers the moves it did today ... There still isn't a place like Fontainebleau in the bouldering world, regardless what the hype says. That arête you've been trying might be only 5c, but believe me, there isn't a climber who never struggled with a font 5c!
Nowadays, bouldering areas are developed by 8a boulderers for their 8a buddies, media hype very welcomed. Most of these areas therefore lack the diversity and spectrum that makes them enjoyable in any physical shape you might be in, with any friends you are with (climbers or not) and in any season.

This is Fontainebleau,

the place where 8a heroes are being lectured by middle aged housewives, inflatable monster pads don't make you dare to top out problems that were established 30 years ago starting on a little carpet and the hardest easy bouldering in the universe!

Fontainebleau, the place

where it all began...




Freigegeben in Bouldering
Mittwoch, 01 Juli 2009 12:50

Lizenz zum Klettern V3 - making of

die Arbeit an "Lizenz zum Klettern V3" Bilder und Produktionsnotizen von 2006
Freigegeben in Media
Test shots with a head mounted "bullit cam", 2004. The footage never got used because the bullit cam can only deliver SD and we entirely switched over to HD in 2005. Now, that there is such a hype about producing in 3D, we want to go back and do a 3D HD film about the Verdon. That would be a stunner!
Gallery of udini shooting in the Verdon Canyon, 2005. The footage later got used on "Die 2te Lizenz zum Klettern DVD", 2008
Freigegeben in Making Of
Dienstag, 30 Juni 2009 13:52

Besser Bouldern! workshop

 Kurzes Video von Udo Neumanns "Besser Bouldern!" workshop, 2009 im Blockwerk / Mainz

Freigegeben in BesserKlettern
Sonntag, 28 Juni 2009 17:33

Gibbon Climbing Club, Bali, Indonesia

Indonesia's island of Bali is mainly known for its surfing. Especially on the Bukhit peninsula you find some of the worlds most epic surfspots in close proximity. We also came here mainly to surf, but while approaching some of the spots like Uluwatu or Padang Padang, my Boulderers mind keeps telling me "wait a moment, there is actually some really good rock here!"

Freigegeben in Climbing
Sonntag, 28 Juni 2009 17:23

Petrohradske PADani bouldering contests


What a lovely event that is! We met in the village of Petrohrad, Petr Resch led us to this years' area, where everybody, armed with the brand new guidebook tried to solve as many of the stunning granit problems as possible. The weather gods were gentle this year and we had two great days in the Czech forest. I mainly shot stills for my upcoming bouldering book this time. Some sequences are shot so rapidly that it makes for an entertaining slideshow. Enjoy!

... please find the clip of the Petrohradske PADani 2006 below ...

Freigegeben in Bouldering
Sonntag, 28 Juni 2009 17:15

Die zweite Lizenz zum Klettern DVD


Die zweite Lizenz zum Klettern DVD ist keine Neuauflage der ersten Lizenz DVD, sondern eine Ergänzung und Erweiterung mit neuem Konzept „Kletterleistung de/konstruiert.“ Am Anfang steht die Frage „Was wissen wir übers Klettern?“

Gerade ist sie presswarm eingetroffen, käuflich erwerben kann man sie hier.
Freigegeben in Media
Montag, 11 Mai 2009 15:16

Bretagne, bouldern und surfen!

Im Supersommer 2003, der ja für Kletterer gar kein Supersommer, sondern einfach nur unerträglich heiss war, „entdeckten“ wir die Bretagne. Praktisch die ganze Küste besteht aus beboulderbarem Granit und die Surfspots sind fantastisch. Beim Bouldern sticht besonders Kerlouan heraus, das man sich über 14 Kilometer wie Hampi am Ozean vorstellen muss, eines der ganz großen Bouldergebiete Europas, aber merkwürdigerweise weitesgehend unbekannt.

So viele Möglichkeiten hat man in Europa ja nicht, bouldern und surfen unter einen Hut zu bringen. (Portugal wäre auch eine Möglichkeit) Aber warum sollte man dass überhaupt wollen? Warum nicht in irgendein Bouldergebiet und ein anderes Mal, wenn es vielleicht eh zum bouldern zu heiss ist zum surfen fahren?

Freigegeben in Bouldering
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