• Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...

Am 26. September 2006 hat Chris Sharma nach zahllosen Versuchen seine neue, noch unbenannte Line am Es Pontas im Meer vor Santanyi gemacht. Die über 20 Meter hohe Route vergleicht Chris von den Kletter-Schwierigkeiten her vage mit seiner "Realization" (9a+) in Ceüse. Damit gehört sie sicher zu den schwierigsten Routen der Welt, ist allerdings dadurch, dass man beim psicobloc nicht ausbouldern kann, möglicherweise die am schwierigsten zu kletternde Linie überhaupt!

Freigegeben in Psicobloc
Sonntag, 20 September 2009 09:20

Der alte Mann und das Mehr


Im August/September 2009 verbrachten Toni Lamprecht, Uli Strunz und Benno Wagner mehrere Wochen in der Verdonschlucht, um den fantastischen Kalkwänden Südfrankreichs eine wunderschöne Erstbegehung abzuringen. Das Resultat: „Le Vieux et la mer", mit 7 Seillängen bis zum 10. Grad eine der anspruchsvollsten und besten Erstbegehungen vom „alten Fuchs" Toni:

„Hat man einmal eine Route im Sektor „Ula" geklettert, so kommt man nicht umhin, rechts davon immer wieder mit staunenden Augen den glatten, vielleicht spektakulärsten Pfeiler der gesamten Schlucht zu bewundern. Bald schon ist man gedanklich gefangen - auf der Suche nach kletterbaren Linien.  2008 dann einmal richtig abgeseilt - und da konnte ich meinen Augen kaum glauben. Im Slalom durch leistiges Gelände ist da was möglich. Ein absolutes Wunder!
Freigegeben in Climbing
Donnerstag, 02 Juli 2009 08:48

Kochelsee psicobloc

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Es muss nicht immer Malle sein! Toni Lamprecht beim Deep Water Soloing überm Kochelsee.

Freigegeben in Psicobloc
Sonntag, 28 Juni 2009 17:15

Die zweite Lizenz zum Klettern DVD

{udini_43single}2teLizuKleDVD/2teLizuKleDVD{/udini_43single}

Die zweite Lizenz zum Klettern DVD ist keine Neuauflage der ersten Lizenz DVD, sondern eine Ergänzung und Erweiterung mit neuem Konzept „Kletterleistung de/konstruiert.“ Am Anfang steht die Frage „Was wissen wir übers Klettern?“

Gerade ist sie presswarm eingetroffen, käuflich erwerben kann man sie hier.
Freigegeben in Media
Sonntag, 28 Juni 2009 16:26

Bouldering @ Atlantiswand, Kochel

 

Warum eigentlich immer wieder Kochel? Und warum immer dieser kleine überhängende Sektor rechts an der grausigen Atlantiswand? Gibt es denn nichts anderes für die Münchner-Highend-Boulderszene?

Nein, denn das Wetter lässt oft über Wochen nichts anderes zu, als das Bouldern an dem vielleicht staubigsten Eck des Alpenvorlandes. Staubig deshalb, da immer trocken - und da wären wir auch schon wieder bei DEM Grund, warum immer wieder hier neue Kreationen entstehen.

Freigegeben in Bouldering
Montag, 11 Mai 2009 14:34

Albarracin bouldering

{udini_list}Albarracin/playlist{/udini_list}  
New clips from Toni Lamprecht's posse's winter 2008 and 2009 trip, including Toni's first ascent of the instant classic El Varano. Albarracin, set in one of Spain's national parks in the the Universale mountains at 3.400 feet and overlooking the Guadalivar River is quickly becoming one of Europe's premiere bouldering destinations. you find more Albarracin info and news here...
Freigegeben in Bouldering
Montag, 11 Mai 2009 14:28

Les Marches du temps en libre


In summer 2006 Toni Lamprecht bolted a line next to the ugly bolt ladder in the ninth pitch of "Les Marches du Temps" in the Verdon. Weather was very bad at this time of the year, but easter 2007 he and Uli Strunz had no problems with the now 8a pitch. They did the whole route without falls. Les Marches du Temps is another great free Verdon route with lots of exposed and challenging pitches. Udini filmed Uli and Toni during the process of finding the line, cleaning and bolting and, well, finally climbing it for the upcoming "2nd Licence to climb" DVD.  Also we started a Verdon Gallery here, with photos shot during our stays. Here is what Toni has to say about their ascent (in German):
Freigegeben in Climbing
Montag, 11 Mai 2009 14:23

Neulich im Buchenhain

oder: "Die Saubayern sind immer noch die Kernigsten!"

nach der Arbeit treffen sich Münchener Kletterer im legendären Buchenhain. Auch im Winter. Wenn es regnet werden Planen gespannt, zu kalt gibt es nicht. Toni erzählt mir, dass die 22jährige Sonia Hofer kurz davor ist sein The bottle wins the battle again zu wiederholen. Als ich eines Abends im November 2007 im Buchenhain filme, habe ich unverschämtes Glück: Norbert macht kurzen Prozess mit Stein des Weisen und Sonia macht The bottle wins the battle again gleich zweimal für die Kamera! Vor Allem muss ich mir aber leider eingestehen, dass die Saubayern immer noch die kernigsten Kletterer sind! Neulich im Buchenhain ist der erste Teil unserer "Obskures Bouldern in D-land" Reihe...
Freigegeben in Bouldering
Sonntag, 10 Mai 2009 15:26

Annot bouldering

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Alle Kletterer fahren ja gerne nach Südfrankreichs unverschänt schöne Landschaft. Das Licht der Provence, gutes Essen und die Stimmungen und Gerüche der verschiedenen Orte und Jahreszeiten - dazu noch die vielen tollen Klettergebiete - Stefan Reians fährt am liebsten zum bouldern nach Annot. Hier ist sein Bericht:

Wenn ich mir einen Ort auf dem Planeten aussuchen könnte - bis jetzt habe ich noch nichts besseres gesehen!

Egal in welchem geilen, exotischen Land man dem Winter entflieht, ich zumindest freue mich immer schon auf den Frühling oder Herbst in France. Schöne Orte und weltklasse Klettergebiete an jedem dicken Baum,und so hat sicher jeder seine Favoriten,die man immer mal wieder besucht - auch ich habe da mehrere.

Seit einigen Jahren gehört Annot jedes Jahr aufs Menu!

Freigegeben in Bouldering
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“Aber der Yuji, der ist doch schon toootaaal alt” platzt die neunzehnjährige Emma (Name geändert) in die Diskussion darüber, dass Yuji Hirayama, unser aller Kletteridol, keine Chance in Biographie, 8c+ hat. Ganze Passagen in der Route kann Yuji nicht klettern. “Aber bei den Wettbewerben tut er noch ganz gut mit” gibt einer zu bedenken. “Ja, aber in den Wettbewerbsrouten gibts auch keine schweren Züge!” sagt Daniel Jung, der deutsche Meister von 2004. Alle nicken zustimmend und damit ist das Thema schon durch, denn keiner der anfangzwanzigjährigen mit denen ich in Céüze stehe können sich vorstellen, dass auch Yuji mal so frisch, jung und stark gewesen ist wie sie selber gerade. Emma war ein Jahr alt, als Yuji 1989 mit seinem Sieg in Nürnberg den ersten großen internationalen Auftritt hatte.

Freigegeben in Climbing
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