• Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
Sonntag, 20 September 2009 09:20

Der alte Mann und das Mehr

geschrieben von 

Im August/September 2009 verbrachten Toni Lamprecht, Uli Strunz und Benno Wagner mehrere Wochen in der Verdonschlucht, um den fantastischen Kalkwänden Südfrankreichs eine wunderschöne Erstbegehung abzuringen. Das Resultat: „Le Vieux et la mer", mit 7 Seillängen bis zum 10. Grad eine der anspruchsvollsten und besten Erstbegehungen vom „alten Fuchs" Toni:

„Hat man einmal eine Route im Sektor „Ula" geklettert, so kommt man nicht umhin, rechts davon immer wieder mit staunenden Augen den glatten, vielleicht spektakulärsten Pfeiler der gesamten Schlucht zu bewundern. Bald schon ist man gedanklich gefangen - auf der Suche nach kletterbaren Linien.  2008 dann einmal richtig abgeseilt - und da konnte ich meinen Augen kaum glauben. Im Slalom durch leistiges Gelände ist da was möglich. Ein absolutes Wunder!

Ein Jahr später, nämlich Mitte August 2009 bouldern Uli Strunz und ich bereits das erste Mal ernsthaft in den unteren Längen herum. Ein zeitlicher Wettlauf zwischen Hitze und Dunkelheit beginnt, denn anstatt zu klettern, jümaren wir jedes Mal die oberen Längen nur noch im Dunklen raus.Nach mehreren Tagen schweißtreibender Jümar-, Putz-, Boulder- und Kletter-Action haben wir 3 Wochen später die schwersten Länge mit durchgeklettert.  Dann die Hilfe von Young-Gun Benno Wagner. Die Längen laufen jetzt wie geschmiert. Ein freier Durchstieg der gesamten Route rückt nahe.
Fast einen Monat nach unserer Ankunft ist es dann soweit: Keine der wackeligen schweren Stellen wirft mich diesmal ab, und so gelingt es mir, die letzte noch fehlende Länge zu Punkten.
Fazit: Obwohl die freie Begehung unserer Route „Le Vieux et le mer" (6b,7a+,8b,8a,6a,7a,7c+,7a) nicht an einem Tag gelungen ist, stellt sie für mich trotzdem den größten Fang meines Lebens in der Schlucht dar. Will man da noch (ans) Meer?
Gelesen 26074 mal Letzte Änderung am Donnerstag, 03 November 2011 09:20