• Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
Gerade erst entdeckt!
Hydra ist Die klassische 8a Risslinie in Ettringen. Etwas versteckt im Sektor Hölle zieht der schmale Fingerriss leicht überhängend die ansonsten strukturarme Wand hoch. In den frühen neunziger Jahren von Udo Neumann erstbegangen wird die ehemals mit 8a bewertete Tour heute sehr selten so geklettert wie damals. Die meisten Wiederholer weichen im unteren Teil des Risses kurz nach links aus. Somit wird die Tour dann zur 7c.
(Weiss nur noch dass ich es ganz anders gemacht habe bevor man nach rechts geht (mit rechter Außenkante in den Riss, mehr so piazmäßig) Wäre schon interessant mal zu sehen wie sich das jetzt so anfühlt!)
A sweet short video featuring Adam Ondra´s "old" ascents of three 9a - 9a+ routes, which were initially filmed for the movie The Wizard´s Apprentice, but did not make it into the final version of the movie. So they are really old now, in many aspects, including the old-school way of filming.
Despite that, two of them are still the hardest routes of Adam´s home climbing area and of the whole Czech Republic. And it would be amazing, if somebody would finally try them... :-)
Sonntag, 17 Februar 2013 17:29

3 klassische Eifel Klettereien, 1990


Leider alles Klettergeschichte, diese Routen sind heute nicht mehr kletterbar! Udo Neumann in "Hühnerbrust", Gregor Jaeger in "Bibos Idee" und Udo Neumann in "Negermemme." (alle Routen übrigens "top" geklettert, auch wenns nicht so aussieht ;-)  - 
gefilmt 1990 auf S-VHS
Donnerstag, 27 Dezember 2012 10:04

Silbergeier

Very nice video of Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat in this mythical Rätikon route, with Nina making the first women ascent of one of the hardest multipitch routes in the world.

Samstag, 17 November 2012 10:53

R.I.P. Patrick Edlinger

If you started climbing in the early eighties, there were only a couple heros to choose from and among those outstanding climbers, Patrick Edlinger was not only the most glamerous, he was also the one "who had it all". Some of the most inspiring imagery of that time showed Patrick Edlinger soloing barefoot in the Verdon and Buoux or repeating everything in the western US in unheard-of good style. He single-handingly developed the Verdon and Ceüse (!!!) and, just when everybody thought he was just a poser (some of his film were rather "french" ;-) - he won all the important competitions! Among them was Munich 1989, the pic below shows him on the final route.

Patrick Edlinger winning Munich, 1989

In 2006 he moved to La Palud to be close to his beloved Verdon Gorge where I shot the pic of Patrick and his kid in 2005. He became only 52 and will be always remembered for one of the characters who shaped modern climbing forever!

Patrick Edlinger with his kid, Verdon 2005

Somebody already uploaded my video comparision of Patrick Edlinger and Wolfgang Güllich in Munich 1989 in bad quality (after the break) but I will re-upload it in better quality as well as other footage we have of Patrick...

 

Montag, 11 Oktober 2010 11:17

Farewell to Kurt Albert

On Saturday 9 of October 2010 a couple of hundred climbers gathered to bid Kurt Albert farewell. In Streitberg, Kurt's home village, companions like Stefan Glowacz, Bernd Arnold, Jerry Moffatt, Jesse Guthrie and Holger Heuber recalled episodes of the many aspects in Kurt's life. As sad as the occasion was, at one point each of them was smiling. Remembering Kurt we go through tears and laughter in an instant. Taking risks, big or small, was Kurt's way of going through life, inspiring people on the way.
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